Qasimi Spring Summer 2021 Show

In a time of upheaval, of intense and sudden change, Qasimi looks inwards – to the identity of its urban wanderer. This season, he has a companion as Qasimi launches its womenswear line under the creative direction of Hoor Al-Qasimi. A soulmate as opposed to a romantic partner, the Qasimi woman relates to the Qasimi man in a way that goes beyond appearances. United in the same beliefs and values, their bond is like that shared between Hoor and her twin brother, Khalid, Qasimi’s founder.

Spring/Summer 2021 takes inspiration from Al Sadu, the weaving tradition of geometric patterns and symbols, hand-woven by the Bedouin people. An original Al Sadu jacquard and a Bedouin stripe weave celebrate the history of this weaving technique, but in a decidedly contemporary way. Historically used for tents, majlis floor pillows, carpets and mats, these pieces have been reinter- preted in the forms of bomber jackets, various trims and trousers.

The feeling of domesticity evoked by the weave, is reflected in the season’s architectural inspira- tion: interiors which, like fashion, reflect our identity and heritage, as well as our lifestyle. Refer- encing what people wear in their homes, clothes take cues from pyjama wear and loungewear, ef- fervescing both comfort and luxury. Rendered from a lustrous woven stripe and luxuriant summer wool marling, the silhouette is relaxed, almost like soft sculpture, cladding the body in an armour of comfort and shielding it from the strains and stresses of the world.

Colours reflect the desert (lilac ash, desert rose), rocks and minerals (marble, obsidian), fruit and spices (Persian plum, cumin), and the military (bronze khaki, covert khaki). Bold hues contrast with soft pastels with mirage-like properties.

While there is a focus on craft throughout, this is contrasted with an emphasis on technology, which presents itself in the form of motor trousers and iridescent trench coats. Buttons, eyelets and hardware lend a sense of futurism to the collection, while straps, tapes and zips give one of adaptability.

The relationship between trade and textiles is another key theme, specifically the fabrics made, bought and sold along the trade routes of sub-Saharan Africa. Here, Islamic symbols and West African designs came together in a fusion of cultures, producing beautiful textiles – unifying and unique – which are an echo of this season’s message of diversity and inclusion.

Spring/ Summer 2021 also draws its inspiration from Jamaican born, African American artist, Nari Ward whose large-scale sculptures and installations often comment on issues such as race and diasporic identity in American culture. Based on his 2018 work We the People (Arabic Version), which sub- verts the opening phrase of the Preamble to the US Constitution using hundreds of shoelaces, the titular words appear in Arabic across bomber jackets, hoodies, and shirts. Replacing Ward’s shoelaces with hanging thread, these words form a timely and unifying message.

This season also sees a commissioned soundtrack by Somali-born, UAE-based hip-hop artist, FREEK, who combines spoken-word in Arabic and English to produce the sound of the collection launch. Incorporating the first line of the US Constitution and the words of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, FREEK has sought inspiration in the sounds of Arabic traditional instruments to compliment his narrative of human change and unification; following in Qasimi’s long-standing tradition of weaving politics and poetry into its designs.

CREDITS
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Hoor Al-Qasimi
STYLIST Tom Van Dorpe
CASTING Shelley Durkan
MUSIC Freek
ART DIRECTOR Nicolas Santos
HAIR Yumi Nakada Dingle
MAKE-UP Laura Dominique
VIDEO DIRECTION Jason Last
VIDEO PRODUCTION Premices
SHOW PRODUCTION Studio Boum
PHOTOGRAPHY (Looks) Ben Breading
PHOTOGRAPHY (Social) Rauwanne Northcott