LUEDER

Spring Summer 25 sees LUEDER delve into the medieval art of alchemy exploring the transformative
purification stage of Albedo, the second of four major stages of Magnum Opus, that divides and
connects opposing principles to form a unity of opposites, causing a chemical colour change, washing
away impurities to bring light and clarity to formless chaos.
This season LUEDER sources colour between darkness and light, contrasting primary pigments of
azurite blue, vermilion red and sulfur yellow against iron greys, black, and burnt wood, to reflect the
the spectrum of chemical transformation. Garments are hand-dyed using a process that uses 60% less
water than traditional dying methods to achieve a vivid ombre effect emulating the first signs of
corrosion.
The presence of alchemy evolves as rust from oxidized brass and steel amulets created by long-term
collaborator Artist Thomas P. Grogan leaves behind shadows of existence dying fabrics and forming
handmade distressed prints. While eroded embossed metal armour informs intricate camouflage-like
motifs featured throughout the collection designed by printmaker and graphic designer Benjamin
Grund and applied to deadstock polyester mesh.
Mediaeval Armour remains the grounding root of LUEDER’s design inspiration, informing the brand's
signature silhouette and approach to garment construction. This is most vividly depicted in a
statement raw denim rangers uniform complete with an armour-like jacket and coordinating wrap
lumbar skirt, alongside armour-like hoods layers over hoodies with breastplate patchwork detailing
and the brand's classic heavy ribbed knitwear. For the first time, soft tailoring is introduced into the
collection, hand-crafted and moulded to replicate the rigid formation of armour, while LUEDER’s
signature twisted draping technique forms a relaxed shield over the body, protecting the wearer from
life’s challenges. Her collections represent a hybrid linked to sportswear and functional aesthetics,
complemented by meticulous attention to sartorial detail, originating in her education as a bespoke
tailor mixed with recalling her passion for medieval silhouettes.
Alchemists also believed Albedo was a process of personal and spiritual changing state, a shift in
consciousness, an awakening of identity and sense of self, where the world becomes more than just
an individual's ego, one's family, or country. LUEDER reflects on this changing state of identity and
consciousness, personifying this clash of mixed emotion through a medieval jester, the collection's
protagonist wearing striped mediaeval-esk two-tone sportswear paired with cat-in-boots gators and a
jester cap. Marie drew inspiration from the Jester's often-exaggerated character and sense of self,
who flitted between social groups, evoking a sense of both charm and menace, finding light in the
darkness to tell often the difficult stories of the day.
Inspired by the jester-masked character, LUEDER collaborates with Artist, Musician and Performer
Felix Riemann to engineer a face mask which sits on the cheekbones of the wear looking equally
sporty, futuristic and ritualistic. The mask evokes both a sense of power and protection at the same
time as vulnerability, concealing the emotion and visibility of the wearer to the outside world. LUEDER
has always championed a vulnerable kind of masculinity rarely seen in fashion, reflecting on the
journey of life, and expressing intimacy and emotion through clothes.
Spring Summer 25 marks LUEDER’s first catwalk at London Fashion Week under the British Fashion
Council’s NEWGEN Initiative, celebrating a pivotal moment for the brand.

SHOW CREDITS:
Styling: Tati Cotliar
Art Director: Jamie Bull
Casting: Emma Matell
Hair: Ben David
Make-up: Grace Sinnott
Music: Simon Parris
Movement Director: David Varhegyi
Artist Collaborations: Felix Riemann, Thomas P Grogan, Benjamin Grund
Set Props: Tom Schneider
Production: Claire Murphy, Celeste Kennedy Doig, Ro Murphy
Studio Team: Allessia Ancilotti, Frances Hardy, Parichehr Karimi
Styling Assistants: Sinéad Ní Tomás, Louisa Luttrell, Kim Chow, Megan Alloh
Casting Assistants: Olivia Jancerowicz, Mikey Mendoza
Show Production: Blondestein
Press: Village
Shoes: PUMA