LUEDER was founded in 2019 by Marie Lüder, a recent graduate of the Royal College of Art. She worked as an apprentice tailor for 3 years at the Hamburg State Opera creating bespoke suits, before studying Fashion Design first in Hamburg, where she started using performance art and installation to present her work, and then at the Royal College of Art under Zowie Broach for her Masters. She creates custom made pieces for artists Isaac Lythgoe, Matthis Gasser (Art Basel 2019), and musician Yves Tumor. Marie is developing scents with IFF Paris in collaboration with the RCA.
LUEDER is designed in Marie's studio in South London, incorporating fine craftsmanship with a perfectly tailored finish, handmade in London. A key focus on multiple time paradigms, as well as the use of three core fabrics: leather, nylon, and denim. Marie works as a narrator and sculptor: researching masculinity and the ontology of the male species through creating garments which work as ‘mind-armour' for the wearer and display the struggle and potential shielding one might incur within the contemporary reality (fiction). Dreaming of and speculating on new role models of men, she uses performance, a variety of media, in collaborative and conversational interrelations and embodiments. There is an imperative to embrace the potentiality of amateurism. That is to say, in relation to gender, bodies, idols, professionalism, strength, vulnerability, and emotions, so that one might be able to restructure and regenerate.